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I do modify the deck by re-aranging four of the cards, because I don't like math and the method I use is math free, but that does not affect the handling of the deck. The manufacturer is Haines House of Cards. Those are the ones I am familiar with.

You don't like math?

All you have to do is subtract the specs choice from 13

Uber hard math!

MrTetley wrote:I bought an ID (bicycle back) and I have to say I'm a bit disappointed with it. Can anyone recommend a good ID or is it always better to make your own?

If you have the Bicycle deck that comes with instructions from Daryl (pink paper cover), you have the best ID there is in my opinion.

I bought a Haines House of Cards deck the other day as a gift for a friend who is learning. I don't know if the cards are just too heavily sprayed or what, but separating them is a nightmare! Compared to the ones I've made myself, and a Bicycle deck that I bought from Davenports (no idea of the 'manufacturer'), the grip is vastly greater - you'd need fingers as sticky as a gecko to move these cards apart without being super-obvious.

Actually, it feels almost like it's static electricity holding the cards together, rather than the spray. Very strange.

T.

Try bending the deck back and forth a couple of times.

Before I fan my ID, I lick my thumb and rub it on my middle finger to get extra grip. The drag the middle finger produces is vital in separating the cards.

I'll do that. Cheers mate.
T.

What's your favourite set up for an ID? I've seen people put 7S opposite 7C, which I thought a little odd, although would make some things easier I guess. I use a sum13 method with Hearts behind Diamonds and Clubs behind Spades with the Kings I treat Hearts and Spades as even.

I've never bought a packet version so wondered what other set-ups are out there.

When I first used the ID I could not get the cardsd to deparate at all. Was just my handling I found though.

When I first opened mine I thought what a waste of money, but it was totally the way I handled them. I now use a very light touch. Interesting that others are applying pressure, I guess there all a bit different.

Guys,
I am very familiar with handling the ID
This one doesn't work (yet).
T.

The deck I use is home made, and I used far to much spray, but it means they stick together really nicely, and I've used it a lot and no one's called me on the slight oddness of the deck...

That said, they're rather old and dog-eared now, but handling so nicely that they don't stick together so much!

ACE T wrote:What's your favourite set up for an ID? I've seen people put 7S opposite 7C, which I thought a little odd, although would make some things easier I guess. I use a sum13 method with Hearts behind Diamonds and Clubs behind Spades with the Kings I treat Hearts and Spades as even.

I've never bought a packet version so wondered what other set-ups are out there.

I match the values, Spades on Hearts, Clubs on Diamonds. ie. 7C > 7D. As much as the Sum 13 method is simple enough, this simplifies it even further. With the suit pairings like this it's nice and simple to orientate the deck so that S&D are found with the deck opened with the front (Spade) uppermost and by elimination C&H are on the reverse (where you see 10H on the new Bike cases). This is, as you'll have already worked out in a CHSD sequence. All in all it makes the removal of the deck as quick and fluid as remotely possible, I can't think of a way of simplifying it further.

The only thing I've ever heard anyone say in opposition to this is that the specs may notice that the mate card is right next to theirs. They don't. Ever. As soon as the upturned card is sighted they care about nothing else.

I use a set up that I got from Boris Wild, it all adds up to 13, so a 7 is with a 6... and the odds and evens are mixed on each side too.
I don't perform it enough to actually remember how to know what's where, and I always have to look it up beforehand.
That's before the gig, not before the reveal... "oh wait hang on, I've got a book here.. ok, what card did you say again?"

Vanderbelt wrote:
I match the values, Spades on Hearts, Clubs on Diamonds. ie. 7C > 7D. As much as the Sum 13 method is simple enough, this simplifies it even further. With the suit pairings like this it's nice and simple to orientate the deck so that S&D are found with the deck opened with the front (Spade) uppermost and by elimination C&H are on the reverse (where you see 10H on the new Bike cases). This is, as you'll have already worked out in a CHSD sequence. All in all it makes the removal of the deck as quick and fluid as remotely possible, I can't think of a way of simplifying it further.

The only thing I've ever heard anyone say in opposition to this is that the specs may notice that the mate card is right next to theirs. They don't. Ever. As soon as the upturned card is sighted they care about nothing else.

Very simple!

Jing wrote:the odds and evens are mixed on each side too.

BrAiN hUrTs!

I made three IDs today:

one red-backed Bicycle deck (new version)
one blue-backed Bicycle deck (old version)
one red-backed Tally-Ho deck

And they *all* handle as I believe they should. A feather-light touch is all that is required to separate the cards, but a reasonably firm grip keeps them together.

T.

Ted,

Do you use Tes**rs? Last one I made I put too much on and it worked the other way, light touch to keep together, heavy to separate...