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by **nikyas** » Nov 18th, '06, 04:41

Hey guys, i need some help here. I've purchased STealth from NUMS a few days ago, but I'm having trouble finding the right thread. Can any of you suggest a good, but cheap thread?

i bought this from emagictricks.co.uk but it is too visible!! not like yigal mesika's

and yes i've used the search function but did come across any useful info. If you guys can point me to the right direction, i will be most grateful.

thanks

by **seige** » Nov 18th, '06, 09:45

Try this invisible elastic thread

This stuff is wicked... for strong unseen thread effects (such as gaffing cards to fold and snap back) it can be used as-is.

But, for other effects such as LOOPS, then this thread splits into finer filaments which are practically invisible.

Perfect for loops. Fiddly, but very economic. As a guide, I've had about 100 loops out of one of these packs, and I've not even made a dent on the spool yet.

Also, you can colour the loops with a Sharpie to make them darker, which helps in certain lighting conditions.

by **Jordan C** » Nov 18th, '06, 13:40

@ seige

I've got paul harris' super elastic thread and I really struggle using it.... it's so invisible it's a nightmare and I find it really hard to make loops with it even using your method..... how do you get round this??

by **fuma** » Nov 18th, '06, 14:39

Jordan C wrote:@ seige

I've got paul harris' super elastic thread and I really struggle using it.... it's so invisible it's a nightmare and I find it really hard to make loops with it even using your method..... how do you get round this??

I am assuming you mean BEN Harris. This is the thread I use as well. I have been tying loops with this stuff for years. No problems. It is not as strong as yigel's by far more invisible.

by **seige** » Nov 18th, '06, 14:59

Jordan

Tying loops with ANY kind of thread should start with an end of thread. To keep this secure, roll a tiny ball of wax around the end before you unspool it. This helps not only keep track of the end, but also is a good anchor.

By attaching a ball at the end as well, and keeping them taught, you can hang thread on a wall in lengths of known dimensions...

Here's something a lot of you might find handy, which I wrote to accompany 'strippable' thread I sell... (this is an excerpt from the sheet I send out with strippable thread...)

Tips
Once you’ve separated about 3 inches of thread, roll a tiny ball of magician’s wax onto the end. This helps you find it should you accidentally let go, and as you get further down, you can affix it to a table or other stationery object.
Once you’ve stripped as much as you need, put a ball of wax on the OTHER end, before cutting or breaking... this keeps your thread from springing back and coiling up again.
I like to separate a few strands in a session, and by putting a ball of wax at each end, I can affix them vertically stretched on a wall, keeping them straight and handy for when they’re needed.
ALWAYS use another piece of thread for another performance. This kind of thread is delicate, and should really only have each strand used once.

Hope this helps!

by **Jordan C** » Nov 18th, '06, 15:03

I am assuming you mean BEN Harris. This is the thread I use as well. I have been tying loops with this stuff for years. No problems. It is not as strong as yigel's by far more invisible.

Yes ben harris, sorry!!

Thanks seige, i'll have a go when this hangover goes

by **nikyas** » Nov 19th, '06, 01:18

thanks for the suggestion seige, i'll buy it from your store soon!

by **Farlsborough** » Nov 19th, '06, 04:03

Siege, I noticed that the more expensive thread has disappeared from the site - is this the same as the old 8 pound thread or is this the 18 pound thread but much cheaper these days...?!

(For those wondering why I typed up "pound", I've just reinstalled Windows and the symbols are all where they shouldn't be...!)

by **seige** » Nov 19th, '06, 10:14

Farlsborough wrote:Siege, I noticed that the more expensive thread has disappeared from the site - is this the same as the old 8 pound thread or is this the 18 pound thread but much cheaper these days...?!

(For those wondering why I typed up "pound", I've just reinstalled Windows and the symbols are all where they shouldn't be...!)

The Premium thread I used to sell has been out of stock for ages at my suppliers—it was matt black on a spool and was pretty much the same as Harris's, but there was much more!

To get your symbols back, just set your keyboard language to either US or 'English', I think

by **rvoice100** » Jan 3rd, '07, 17:57

seige, any tips on splitting your elastic thread, ive had zero sucsess

by **seige** » Jan 3rd, '07, 18:36

Two ways I've had success is rubbing the end between my fingers or literally combing the end with a needle.

It is possible to split it indefinately, to a point. The finest I've had is spider web thin—about 8 strands. Once split, it peels away really easily. And there's LOADS of it!

by **seige** » Jan 3rd, '07, 18:38

seige wrote:
Farlsborough wrote:Siege, I noticed that the more expensive thread has disappeared from the site - is this the same as the old 8 pound thread or is this the 18 pound thread but much cheaper these days...?!

(For those wondering why I typed up "pound", I've just reinstalled Windows and the symbols are all where they shouldn't be...!)

The Premium thread I used to sell has been out of stock for ages at my suppliers—it was matt black on a spool and was pretty much the same as Harris's, but there was much more!

To get your symbols back, just set your keyboard language to either US or 'English', I think

Premium kevlar thread is now back in stock. It's not elastic, though

but it's very strong. Ideal for heavier float effects or ITR rigging.

by **kingkongkyle1** » Jan 12th, '07, 22:04

Use super elastic thread its very strong

by **vdave3000** » Jan 13th, '07, 00:02

What do u guys mean by LOOPS? ive just bought some of yigal mesika IT... im just wondering how good or bad it is.. since i haven't received it yet?

CrazyD

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Loops, which thread to use?

Loops, which thread to use?

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